pH - matured ponds
Sunday, June 1, 2008
A couple visited us (31 May) asking questions about their koi dieing over the last 10 days - 4 pieces of fairly big size of over 40 cm long!
I visited the couple's home at nearby Impian Emas. Upon checking the water, the pH was at an acidic level of 4.9 and the ammonia level was slightly raised. The filter chamber runs without coral. Coral is a very good media for filter chamber as it moderates pH towards akaline level and also acts as bacteria houses.
As one of the several surviving koi in the pond was in distress, 30% water change was recommended. At the same time, coral was introduced to the filter chamber. Feeding of the koi was stopped for 5 more days and close monitoring of pH was carried out.
For this episode, likely the koi died due to the raised ammonia level as given the pH of 4.9, bacteria would have been destroyed and not present to 'clear' the ammonia.
PH Ong / KK House
8:00 AM |
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Power disruptions
Friday, May 16, 2008
From time to time, your well-kept koi collection perished due to lack of oxygen for several hours when your water pumps stopped during a power failure. You are able to continue a steady supply of oxygen to your pond if you have an air pump supported by an AC back-up set and a battery.
With an air pump, your pond will have a regular supply of oxygen. It becomes even more important during a power failure as this supply of oxygen continues for another 8 hours as the AC back-up automatically kicks in. This is a 'must-have' if you experience frequent power disruptions at your place!
PH Ong / KK House
2:46 PM |
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Dissolved Oxygen
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Oxygen is vital to all living organisms.
Low oxygen concentration can cause koi to be susceptible to disease and even die suddenly. Usually the larger koi die first when the oxygen level is too low. Oxygen concentration decreases when, (1) temperature increases, (2) over stocking of koi in your pond, (3) decaying matters in the pond, (4) poor or no circulation of pond water.
To find the level of dissolved oxygen or oxygen concentration, use a test kit or Dissolved Oxygen Meter.
Moving water helps mix air into the water. A stream, waterfall and jets can perform this. By moving the water surface of a pond with pond jets, the atmosphere and water contacting each other repeatedly will increase the oxygen content of the water. Air pump and air stone is a good means of increasing oxygen concentration.
By increasing the oxygen level in the pond water, a healthier pond is achieved. One important aspect that higher level of oxygen in a pond helps is in better promotion of good biological bacteria known as Aerobic bacteria. Aerobic bacteria are the good bacteria in our pond that need and like oxygen. They grow and eat dead decaying plants and algae 20 to 30 times faster than Anaerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria live and grow in the absence of oxygen. Maintaining a constant supply of oxygen greatly improves the ability for the Aerobic bacteria to thrive and keep your pond cleaner, the water clearer and fish healthier.
Ponds that are designed with bottom drains permit better oxygen disbursement towards the bottom as water usually enters the pond's top surface and is drawn out from the bottom drain to the filter box. This method re-circulates the pond's total water volume better. More oxygen content close to the bottom promotes the good bacteria which consumes waste that settles on the bottom.
There are many benefits to having adequate oxygen concentration. So, when it comes to oxygen in your pond, more is better!
PH Ong / KK House
10:34 PM |
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Salt - It's wonder to Koi
Friday, May 4, 2007
Salt is widely used in the health care and maintenance of Koi. Salt is useful in treating parasites. Concentration of 0.5% (5kg salt per 1000-litre water) upsets the osmotic balance of some parasites and dehydrate them, and so ‘clean’ your koi of these parasites.
To minimise the siting of these parasites on the body of koi, keeping a salinity level of 0.1-0.2% (1 - 2 kg salt per 1000-litre water) on an on-going basis is highly recommended. Try this out..... you would have lesser problems with your koi, including when adding new koi to your pond!
While we have strict regime of salt bath for koi when we receive them, it is still important for you to carry this salt bath procedure (in a separate quarantine tank if possible) before you introduce your newly purchased koi to the pond with your existing collections.
Remember to cover up your pond for the next 2 to 3 days as koi tend to jump in a new pond environment. Feed them only after 3 days and start with smaller quantity and build up to the 3% weight of koi food to the total weight of the koi you have in your pond.
Remember, more upfront works less problem later. Practise it always!
PH Ong / KK House
5:42 PM |
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Maturing your koi pond
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Efficient biological filtration enables Koi to live in a pond. Without it, the pond would quickly become impossible to live in due to the build-up of toxic ammonia from koi wastes.
In the nitrogen cycle, waste matters (urine and waste discharge from koi, unfinished koi food) are mineralized into Ammonia and Ammonium. This is then oxidized by bacteria into Nitride (NO2). In turn, this Nitride is further broken down into the relatively harmless Nitrade (NO3) which is removed during regular partial water changes.
The beneficial filter bacteria (the biomass) occur naturally in air and water, but, to colonize the filter and multiply to viable levels, they require nourishment in the form of koi waste discharge and unfinished koi food, etc and very importantly together with a constant supply of dissolved oxygen, and time.
Chorine in tap water is lethal to filter bacteria. Ensure the pond water pH is between 7.2 and 7.8 and that there are no residual contaminants like lime from untreated mortar. If your pond is fiber-lined this becomes less of an issue. Take note that bacteria will not grow if the pH is lower than 6.5 and that the higher the pH, e.g. pH at 8.2, ammonia becomes a lot more toxic compared to pH of 7.2 and could well kill the koi in your pond. Aeration of the water would provide a better environment for bacteria growth but at this stage keep the UV light switched off. To kick-start having bacteria in the filter chambers, add a liquid suspension of live filter bacteria into the biological filter chambers.
Close monitoring of the various water parameters like pH and dissolved oxygen level would be required. When koi is finally introduced to the pond, ammonia level is the next parameter you need to pay particular attention.
It would be necessary to turn on the overflow water supply tap to allow a constant drip of fresh water to the pond which would in turn drain off water via the discharge pipe.
It can take one to several weeks (as there are many elements that can create havoc to what you are trying to do) for the pond to achieve the required biological balance to accommodate your koi. With proper planning and execution you should get there.
Enjoy your new hobby and take good care of your collection of koi.
PH Ong / KK House
4:09 AM |
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Classifying Koi
Monday, April 23, 2007
There are over 100 varieties of Koi. They can be categorized in following ways:
1. According to scale
Nishikigoi - Japanese carp, body covers with scales
Doitsugoi - Germany carp, body covers with no scales "Leather carp" or with a line of large scales along their lateral and dorsal lines "Mirror carp"
2. By number of colours
Mono Colour - Ogon, Kigoi, Chagoi, Midorigoi, Benigoi
Two Colours - Kohaku, Bekko, Utsurimono, etc.
Three Colours - Taisho-sanshoku, Showa-sanshoku, Koromo, etc.
3. According to ZNA
(ZNA - Zen Nippon Airinkai is a koi keepers society in Japan)
Koi is defined into 16 categories which are used at most of Koi shows in the world.
PH Ong / KK House
8:55 PM |
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Varieties of Nishikigoi
The 16 categories according to the ZNA are as follows:
(hover on images to view description)
KOHAKU 
Kohaku is koi with red pattern on a snow white ground. Kohaku, Taisho-Sanshoku and Showa-Sanshoku together are called "Big Three" in Koi's family.
Ohmoyo: with single unbroken pattern extending from head to tail.
Nidan: with two-step pattern.
Sandan: with three-step pattern.
Yondan: with four-step pattern.
Godan: with five-step pattern.
TAISHO-SANSHOKU
Taisho Sanshoku is koi with relatively spotted black markings on Kohaku pattern but there should be no black markings on the head. The variety was created in the era of Taisho (early 1900's) in Japan, it is called "Taisho Sanshoku". In short, it is also called "Taisho Sanke" or "Sanke".
SHOWA-SANSHOKU 
Showa Sanshoku is koi with white and red markings against a strong black base. It is called Showa because the variety developed them in the era of Showa (1930's) in Japan. In difference with Taisho Sanke, Showa has black pattern running down the face as well as at the base of both pectoral fins and tail.
Kindai-showa: Kindai means "modern". Kindai-showa has more white than black colours in comparison with original Showa.
TANCHO
Tancho has a single red crown-like marking in the center of the head.
Depending on the pattern of the other colours on the body, they are categorized as Tancho Kohaku, Doitsu Tancho Kohaku, Tancho Showa, Tancho Taisho Sanke, Tancho Goshiki, etc.
UTSURI MONO
Utsuri mono indicates varieties with black calligraphic pattern on one solid white, yellow or red ground such as Shiro Utsuri, Hi Utsuri, and Ki Utsuri
Like Showa, it should have black patterns at the mouth or nose, at the base of both pectoral fins, and at the base of the tail.
ASAGI
Asagi is the origin of Nishikigoi. It provided the basis for many subsequent varieties. Its back is covered in a net-like reticulated scale pattern of indigo, navy blue or pale blue, and pectoral fins, tail fin, belly, gill plates are in orange or red.
SHUSUI
Shusui was created by crossbreeding of Asagi & Doitsugoi (German scaleless carp). It was one of the first Doitsu varieties of Koi.
Shusui has a bold line of blue scales on the back. And pectoral fins, tail fin, belly, gill plates are in orange or red like Asagi. Shusui that has red colour up to the dorsal line is called Hi-shusui.
BEKKO
Bekko has small black pattern running down its back set against a white, yellow or red background, just like a Taisho Sanshoku with red patterns removed. There are three types of Bekko: Shiro Bekko (white background), Ki Bekko (yellow background) and the Aka Bekko (red background).
GOSHIKI
Goshiki means "5 colours". The original Goshiki was developed with colours of Taisho Sanke (red, white, black) and Asagi (navy and blue)
Lately, the name "Goshiki" refers to any koi with a grey Asagi-like net scale pattern overlaid with a Kohaku-like pattern. And "Goshiki Sanke" refers to koi that has black markings of Sanke in addition to Goshiki.
KOROMO
Koromo means "clothed". It was developed by interbreeding of Kohaku and Asagi. The difference between Goshiki and Asagi is that Koromo has a pure white ground with Asagi-like net scale appeared in red patterned area.
Ai-goromo: It has blue net-like reticulation scales and red pattern area.
Budogormo: Is has blue or purple clusters of markings on the red pattern.
HIKARI MUJI
Hikari Muji also refers to the name "Ogon". It has a solid metallic shining colour.
Matsuba which has a pinecone-like pattern is also included in this category. It was created by crossbreeding the Hikari Muji with other existing varieties.
HIKARI UTSURI
Hikari Utsuri was developed by crossbreeding of Showa or Utsuri Mono with Hikari Muji that produce pattern koi with metallic sheen. Showa becomes Kin Showa, Shiro Utsuri becomes Gin Shiro, and Hi Utsuri or Ki Utsuri becomes Kinki Utsuri.
HIKARI MOYO
Hikari Moyo is a metallic shiny koi with colour pattern(s) excluding Hikari Muji and Hikari Utsuri.
Hariwake: Gold pattern on platinum ground
Yamato Nishiki: Metallic Taisho Sanshoku
Kikusui: Doitsu Hariwake that has stronger red.
Kujaku: Metallic Goshiki.
KINGINRIN (CLASS A)
Kinginrin has metallic flake effect on its scales which reflecs light like tiny silver and gold mirrors. It is simply referred as "Ginrin". This type of scale occurs in nearly every variety of Koi.
Class A includes:
Ginrin Kohaku, Ginrin SHowa, Ginrin Taisho Sanke
KINGINRIN (CLASS B)
All other Kinginrin koi except in Kinginrin (Class A).
KAWARI MONO
This category contains virtually all of koi that do not fit into any of other categories mentioned above.
When new breed is created, it usually start out in this category. When the new breed becomes stabilized, it sometimes awards a new category of its own.
(Credits for above information to www.koiart.biz)
PH Ong / KK House
8:45 PM |
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pH - matured ponds
